Ref. 2443A highly rare and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal indication and regatta countdown, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.
Manufacturer: Heuer
Year: Circa 1955
Reference No: 2443
Case No: 950’239
Model Name: Seafarer
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, Valjoux 721, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Leather
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 38mm Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement signed Abercrombie & Fitch Co.; movement stamped AXFCapturing the sporting essence of the consignor, this exceedingly rare Abercrombie & Fitch chronograph made by Heuer is fittingly called the “Seafarer”, and it is thematically foundational to the “Ride the Wave” collection.
Forget what you know about the current Abercrombie & Fitch brand. In the 1950s, Abercrombie served the needs of the modern sportsman: golf, swimming, fishing, hiking, tennis, sailing, wakeboarding, and more – any accessory one would need to lead an active lifestyle could be found in the enticingly illustrated pages of their summer catalogues. The company reached out to Heuer to create watches for them beginning in the 1940s, and a young Jack Heuer apprenticed at Abercrombie & Fitch in their New York City department store. He even later assisted in the development of the Solunar and the Seafarer models, puzzling out the problem of modifying a movement to reflect the tides for the Solunar, and then later incorporating a chronograph upon the commercial failure of the Solunar.
The present example of the Seafarer reference 2443 is what Heuer scholars have termed the “second execution”, with triangle hour markers outlined in gilt and filled with aqua-colored luminous paint, and Arabic numerals 1, 5, 7, 11, and 12 only. This exceptional example of the second execution 2443 is in unspoiled condition, with sharp facets to the lugs and sides of the case, and the vivid colors of the dial are original and remarkable in their preservation. The teal-colored, luminous hour markers are perfectly preserved, and the etching of the case number between the lugs is as crisp as if it were engraved yesterday. A spectacular example of the reference, very few of these Seafarers have ever surfaced publicly, and even fewer in this exemplary state of preservation. This watch comes from the remarkable and discerning collection of a seafarer in both spirit and practice.