H.Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
H. Moser & Cie is an independent watch brand that has become known as the enfant terrible of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Quite a polarising brand, they made their name initially creating beautiful elegant timepieces but in the last few years, they have really become a force to reckon with by introducing satire into their watchmaking, with pieces such as the one-off ‘Swiss Cheese’ watch and ‘Apple’ watch. I for one think this is refreshing that a brand is taking an active stand to criticize and create a commentary on the Swiss watch industry, especially as it comes from a brand with a very strong pedigree.
In recent years, we have been witnessing an influx of brands trotting their takes on the classic ‘sports watch with an integrated bracelet’ archetype from the ‘70s, by introducing similar designs with fairly predictable design cues and aesthetic variations. However, the timepiece offered here today is quite an extraordinary one, because, with this reference, Moser has found a way to ease into the integrated bracelet trend so well without being derivative, as many of its contemporaries have e. What we are offering today is the Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6812-1200.
From a distance, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar may look like a regular three-hander watch, but if you look closer, you will find a tiny red hand peeking out from underneath the hand stack. If it wasn’t for that pop of red, there’s a high chance that you’ll probably miss it. This tiny red hand right here is the manifestation of the Perpetual Calendar complication integrated within, as it is used to indicate the month.
The cushion-shaped case measures 42.3mm x 11mm, making it relatively wearable by modern standards. When you run your fingers over the bezel, you will notice an almost sunburst-like texture on its exterior, which is topped off with polished rims that flank the edge of the case and gradually flow into a brushed recess on the side. It also features an ‘M’ signed screw-down crown at the 4 o ‘clock position and a leap year corrector at 10 o ‘clock.
Moving on to the dial – what can I say? The visual of the dial is quintessentially Moser, there is simply nothing quite like it. What we are looking at here is a masterful balancing exercise between simplicity, elegance, and sportiness. Like most Moser watches, the dial features a radiant sunburst grey that gradually fades into black on its periphery with a racing-style minute track. You will find a date window aperture with luminous numerals at the 4 o’clock position, whereas at 10 o ‘clock, the hour marker is replaced by a power reserve indicator. The dial also adorns the Moser logo at 12 o ‘clock in transparent lacquer, a very discrete and tasteful touch. As far as the hands are concerned, they are partially polished and extended with ceramic “Globolite” lume, which is proprietary to Moser.
The bracelet itself is a work of art. When worn on the wrist as it contours beautifully in a wave-like pattern due to its ergonomic construction. It also features a similar brushed finish to match the case alongside its polished bevels.
Powering the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar from within, is a beautiful in-house, 33 jeweled, Cal. HMC 812 was designed by world-renowned watchmaker, Andreas Strehler. It features a twin mainspring barrel system which gives it the capability to host a monstrous 168-hour power reserve. The finishing on the bridges and plates features Moser’s signature double striping and micro-blasted and coated in an anthracite grey PVD. Another notable technical innovation here is the perpetual calendar functionality, which is indicated by a leap year indicator on the movement side. Now, what’s really compelling about this particular caliber is the fact that it was specially developed to allow for bidirectional adjustments, and is immune to any potential damage that is usually likely to occur during adjustment with other perpetual calendar calibers during the wrong time of the day.
At the end of the day, I love Moser for what they stand for in the watchmaking industry as a whole, and for always being unapologetically true to themselves when it comes to modern watch design. Yes, this may have or not have been inspired by integrated bracelet sports watches from the ‘70s, but I personally think that Moser has found a way to offer a complicated sports watch with an integrated bracelet without being too derivative of an often replicated/revisited design. Even a quick glance at it you will know that it is unmistakably a Moser. The fact that it also has a secret (well, almost) perpetual calendar function, makes it even cooler to boot.
SPECS
Brand: H. Moser & Cie
Year: 2022
Model: Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 6812-1200
Material: Stainless Steel
Movement: Cal. HMC 812, Manual-wind
Case Diameter: 42.3mm
Bracelet/Strap: H. Moser & Cie Integrated Stainless Steel Bracelet with Deployant Clasp
