Ref. 22560An extremely rare steel and gold split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour dial signed “A. Cairelli” official supplier to Italian Ministry of Defence
Manufacturer: Universal
Year: 1950
Reference No: 22560
Movement No: 2687
Case No: 22560 – 2
Model Name: A. Cairelli, Rattrapante
Material: Stainless steel and gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 285, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Calf
Clasp/Buckle: Steel pin buckle
Dimensions: 44.5mm diameter
Signed: Case, dial and movement signed; dial further signed by retailer
Accessories: Delivered with Universal Geneve Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present timepiece in 1950 and its case metal. Condition Report
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Description
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.
Manufacturer
:
Universal
Year
:
1950
Reference No
:
22560
Movement No
:
2687
Case No
:
22560 – 2
Model Name
:
A. Cairelli, Rattrapante
Material
:
Stainless steel and gold
Calibre
:
Manual, cal. 285, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
:
Calf
Clasp/Buckle
:
Steel pin buckle
Dimensions
:
44.5mm diameter
Signed
:
Case, dial and movement signed; dial further signed by retailer
Accessories
:
Delivered with Universal Geneve Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present timepiece in 1950 and its case metal.
Catalogue Essay
The initial split-seconds chronograph mechanisms were discovered in late 19th-century pocket watches, where they were utilized for measuring intermediate timing events like lap times in horse racing. However, as wristwatches gained popularity in the early 20th century, single-button (monopusher) chronographs became available. In 1923, Patek Philippe introduced the world's first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, setting the design standard for subsequent models. Today, these timepieces are highly prized by collectors for their intricate movements and timeless aesthetics. Particularly, oversized military split-chronographs from the mid-20th century are in great demand. Renowned brands such as Rolex, Eberhard, Breitling, and Universal manufactured these exceptional timepieces, which exude a cool, masculine, and iconic appeal.
The present Universal split-seconds timepiece is an uncommon model created for the Italian Ministry of Defence and the Italian Air Force and it was distributed through the renowned retailer A. Cairelli of Rome and served as a navigation tool during a time when flight crews relied on dead reckoning and beacons for orientation. Universal opted for a 24-hour dial design with a 16-minute subsidiary register, which, thanks to the large 44.5mm case diameter, ensures legibility and ease of reading during nocturnal missions. The retailer's signature is prominently displayed at the 6 o'clock position, a feature found in many collectible military timepieces of the 20th century. Powered by the Valjoux 55 caliber, the same movement used in the famed Rolex reference 4113, this watch exemplifies precision timekeeping and functionality.
The present example, with its beautifully aged dial, is further enhanced by a gold bezel and split chronograph reset button. It is possible that this particular timepiece was crafted for a high-ranking military officer, symbolizing prestige and honor, or perhaps a civilian as there are no military engravings on the caseback. The collaboration between the Italian Ministry of Defence and retailer A. Cairelli holds significant horological significance. For discerning collectors, this watch represents a rare opportunity to own an enduring piece of history.
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Artist Biography
Universal
Swiss
• 1894
Universal Genève was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1894 and was originally known as "Universal Watch." Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their oversized cases and interesting dial designs. Key models include a variety of "Compax" models such as the "Nina Rindt" or "Evil Nina," the Uni-Compax, the Space-Compax, the Aero-Compax and the Film-Compax.
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Ref. 22560
An extremely rare steel and gold split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour dial signed “A. Cairelli” official supplier to Italian Ministry of Defence