Universal Genève Compax Bi Metal 'Reverse Panda' 384.445
Basic Info
Listing code : N0UD41
Brand : Universal Genève
Model : Compax
Reference number : 384.445
Movement : Manual winding
Case material : Gold/Steel
Bracelet material : Leather
Year of production : 1990 (Approximation)
Condition : Used (Very good)
Scope of delivery : No original box, no original papers
Gender : Men's watch/Unisex
Location : United Kingdom, LONDON
Price : 2,995
Availability : Item is in stock
Caliber
Movement : Manual winding
Caliber/movement : Lemania 1873
Case
Case material : Gold/Steel
Case diameter : 37 mm
Dial : Silver
Bracelet/strap
Bracelet material : Leather
The 1960s and 70s were a golden era for sports chronographs, seeing some of the most iconic models, such as the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, and Heuer Carrera. However, arguably the greatest chronograph manufacturer of the time was a brand that had been forgotten for years until recently: Universal Genève.
From the 1930s to the 70s, UG produced some of the most beautiful chronographs ever made (Nina Rindt, Eric Clapton, and their ‘evil’ and ‘exotic’ counterparts to name a few). They were largely handmade and powered by legendary movements like the Valjoux 72.
Along with many other top Swiss watchmakers, UG fell on hard times during the quartz crisis and the brand disappeared from mainstream attention until its recent acquisition by Breitling. However, Breitling was not the first to attempt to revive UG; in the late 80s / early 90s, a holding company based in Hong Kong acquired UG, and released a decently large catalogue of watches primarily based on their iconic designs.
The present example, UG Compax ref. 384.445 was born in this era. It features a 3 register "reverse-panda" design, clearly inspired by the Nina Rindt. Inside, it is powered by the reliable Lemania 1873, housed in an extremely well-proportioned 37mm case (vs. 42mm case on a Speedy with the same movement).
UG released this watch in a variety of case materials and colour combinations. Unfortunately, none of them was particularly popular then, which led to a short stint on the market. However, as a result of this, many UGs from this period are preserved in like new or even NOS condition (never left the shop). This watch has been worn, but very occasionally. The 18K yellow gold and steel case is as sharp as day 1. The yellow gold portion has this unique warmth from the 90s that almost appears as rose gold. The black/silver dial is spotless, complemented by the gold indices and markers. One can only imagine wearing this on the streets of Hong Kong in the early 90s, what a time to be alive.
The watch came to us in great health, running at +3 s/d, 275 amps, with a 0.2 ms beat error. Whilst vintage UG chronographs now (deservingly) demand hefty pricetags now, watches like this still represent great value and will undoubtedly bring a smile to your face.
