Universal Genève Compax Chronograph "18K Rose Gold"
Basic Info
Listing code : O4XBX9
Brand : Universal Genève
Model : Compax
Reference number : 484.440
Case material : Rose gold
Year of production : 1990 (Approximation)
Condition : Used (Very good)
Scope of delivery : Original box, no original papers
Location : United Kingdom, LONDON
Price : 4,995
Availability : Item is in stock
Case
Case material : Rose gold
Dial : Black
The 1960s and 70s were a golden era for sports chronographs, seeing some of the most iconic models, such as the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, and Heuer Carrera. However, arguably the greatest chronograph manufacturer of the time was a brand that had been forgotten for years until recently: Universal Genève.
From the 1930s to the 70s, UG produced some of the most beautiful chronographs ever made (Nina Rindt, Eric Clapton, and their ‘evil’ and ‘exotic’ counterparts to name a few). They were largely handmade and powered by legendary movements like the Valjoux 72. Understandably, these watches have since become coveted amongst UG collectors, and with a price tag to match.
During the 70s and 80s, along with many other top Swiss watchmakers, UG fell on hard times because of the quartz crisis and the brand disappeared from mainstream attention until its recent acquisition by Breitling. However, Breitling was not the first to attempt to revive UG; in the late 80s / early 90s, a holding company based in Hong Kong acquired UG, and released a decently large catalogue of watches primarily based on their iconic designs.
The present example, UG Compax ref. 484.440, was born in this era. It features a classic three-register design, much like its ancestors from the 1960s. Inside, it is powered by the reliable Lemania 1873 movement, housed in an extremely well-proportioned 35mm case (compared to the 42mm case of a Speedy with the same movement).
UG released this watch in a variety of case materials and colour combinations. Unfortunately, none were particularly popular at the time, leading to a short stint on the market. However, as a result, many UGs from this period are preserved in like-new or even NOS (New Old Stock) condition—never having left the shop. This particular example has been worn, but only occasionally. The 18K rose gold case remains extremely sharp, and the warm tone of the gold forms a wonderful contrast against the matte black dial with rose gold markers and hands. One can only imagine wearing this on the streets of Hong Kong in the early ’90s—what a time to be alive.
The watch came to us in great health, running at -5 s/d, 293 amps, with a 0.6 ms beat error. While vintage UG chronographs now (deservedly) command hefty price tags, these 1990s chronographs still represent incredible value—and will undoubtedly bring a smile to your face.
