Rolex Submariner 5508 Gilt Dial
Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, this Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.
Launched in 1958 as one of many Submariner references that were introduced in the late 1950s as Rolex tried to balance the collection’s legibility and durability with its performance and looks, the Submariner ref. 5508 is a famed reference amongst collectors for a host of reasons. Famed as the last 38mm Submariner reference, the ref. 5508 features the purest essence of the Submariner’s vintage spirit, which is also communicated through its lack of crown guards and accompanying small crown, which was only 6mm – 2mm smaller than crowns on previous and subsequent Submariner references. Additionally, given the evolving demands of dive watches at the time, the ref. 5508 was the last Submariner reference to be water-resistant to 100m. A truly iconic model that has its place with the Submariner’s history, the ref. 5508 holds its own with so many of its iconic siblings, and so we are delighted to have one with us here at Loupe This.
THE DIAL With an aged but fully legible gilt chapter ring dial, this 5508 exhibits strong vintage flair and design elements that have since become synonymous with the Submariner line.
THE CONSTRUCTION Iconic in its styling and design, the Submariner 5508's beautiful 38mm stainless steel construction fits the wrist perfectly today, just as it did back when it was launched. With its small crown and lack of crown guards, it is unique on the wrist and brings that vintage flavor that collectors cherish so much.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT The movement is running poorly and in need of an overhaul. This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
