Rolex
Reference 1680 Submariner | A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and tropical dial, Circa 1978
Dial: purple, tropical Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, engraved screw down case back Case number: 5’726’835 Closure: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 185 mm Signed: case, dial, and movement Box: no Papers: noCreated in 1953, the Submariner was the first wristwatch designed specifically for scuba diving. To capitalize on this new sport that at the time was quickly gaining popularity, Rolex dived deep into their waterproofing know-how and technological capabilities to create the first professional dive watch. The Reference 1680 was released in 1967 and was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, giving the Reference an appeal for everyday wear in addition to being a dive watch. Its versatility quickly catapulted the 1680 to becoming the most popular Submariner model, and in 1969 Rolex introduced the Reference in extravagant solid 18k gold. The 1680 became the first Rolex sports watch cased in solid gold and signified a new era of opulence and exclusivity, and the elevation of the sports watch. The gold cased examples were paired with either a black dial and black bezel, or a blue dial and blue bezel, which Rolex experimented on with gold lettering. Unbeknownst to the brand at the time, a pigmentation issue caused blue dials to change over time, transforming into a deeper navy blue, a warm, golden brown hue, or a decadent, satiny purple, such as the present example. Our present lot features a stunning example of this ‘tropical’ effect, with the originally blue dial having transformed completely into a luxurious purple. While the dials from this period are commonly ‘tropical’ and change over time, it is extremely rare to come across such a beautifully ‘tropicalled’ example with even coloring. Paired with its solid gold Oyster bracelet, and bearing clear and crisp assay marks, the present timepiece is a sumptuous example of a Rolex icon.