Reference 1680/8 ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner | A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, Owned by Al Giddings and Screenworn by Bill Paxton in 'Titanic', Circa 1984
Rolex
Dial: black Caliber: cal. 3035 automatic, 27 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, screw down case back Case number: 8’568’350 Closure: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 185 mm Signed: case, dial, and movement Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Rolex presentation box and hangtags, Titanic movie poster personally signed by Al Giddings, signed and inscribed giclée print of the hull of R.M.S. Titanic photographed by Al Giddings, Under The Sea With Al Giddings sealed DVD, front page excerpt of Marin Independent Journal newspaper dated June 24, 2023, Introduction and Cinematography from Al Giddings Images Inc., business cards from the filming of TitanicTo paraphrase George Orwell, all Submariners are created equal – but there are some that are a cut above the rest. That is certainly the case for the reference 1680/8 which debuted in 1969 as the first ever all-gold Submariner. Gold as a material is often associated with precious objects, such as trophies to mark important milestones in life. In many ways this particular watch is just that – and in more ways than one.
The story of this Submariner starts with Al Giddings’ work documenting the research of Dr. Sylvia Earle – a highly regarded marine biologist, oceanographer, and explorer. Dr. Earle and Al worked very closely for a number of years, and Al’s unique ability to capture the underwater world was integral to bringing her work and research to life. During this period, Rolex had an employee who was a former marine and prominent diver named T. Walker Lloyd.
“I became dear friends with T. Walker Lloyd, who was an employee of Rolex. I knew him for quite a number of years, when they were trying to develop the underwater world at the time and so on for Rolex. Anyway, it happened fate and circumstance that I had some photographs of Dr. Sylvia Earle that Rolex hoped to use in their ad campaign or whatever. So I sent them off.”
Dr. Sylvia Earle remains a Rolex Ambassador to this day, and Al’s images were used by Rolex, launching their relationship and helping promote her important undersea work. When T. Walker Lloyd asked Al how much they owed him for the photographs, Al said there was no charge as he was just happy to support Sylvia and her work.
“About a month went by, and a box came in the mail that just said, "Enjoy, T. Walker Lloyd." And it was this gold Rolex. I was in shock. I think at the time they were $10,000 or I can't remember.”
While the thought of Rolex gifting such an important watch to a member of the underwater diving community is impressive history enough, the story of this watch does not end there. Al wore this watch sparingly but did use it on dives to important locations. Its next great ‘trophy’ moment would arrive in 1997 with the filming of the movie Titanic. Having worked with James Cameron on The Abyss, and after having produced his 1992 documentary titled ‘Titanic: Treasure of the Deep’, he was Co-Producer and Director of Underwater Photography on Cameron’s now iconic movie. Aside from Al having a cameo in the movie itself as one of the Mir submersible operators speaking with Bill Paxton, his Gold Submariner 1680/8 had a leading role on Bill Paxton’s wrist. Cameron felt that a gold Submariner would be fitting for a Dive Director of Brock Lovett’s stature – and as always Al was happy to lend a hand.
“I finished my part of the movie and went back to Montana, 8 or 10 months later, I started scratching my head, "Whatever happened to my gold Rolex?" and got ahold of Jim's office. And a week or two later, it came in the mail with a thank you note, from Fox.”
