Ref. 605HUA previously unknown and most probably unique pink gold open face worldtime pocketwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of Europe, Asia, Africa
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: 1950
Reference No: 605HU
Movement No: 931'071
Case No: 683'464
Model Name: Worldtime
Material: 18k pink gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 17-170HU, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 44mm Diameter
Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1950 with world time dial, enamel center, Europe, Asia, Africa and its subsequent sale on April 16, 1957The arrival on the market of a Patek Philippe world time pocket watch featuring a cloisonné enamel dial is always exhilarating, but the discovery of an example unknown to the market is a transcendental moment of awe and excitement.
Four reference 605HU were known until today, featuring a dial depicting Europe, Asia and Africa, however they were all cased in yellow gold. The present model, fresh to the market and from the family of the original owner, is the only one known housed in a pink gold case adding an extra layer of desirability.
Before the arrival on the market of the present piece, we knew of only 6 other reference 605HU cased in pink gold but featuring different dials.
Patek Philippe’s vintage world time watches, especially with cloisonné enamel dials have garnered a cult status amongst collectors. World time watches were serially produced by Patek Philippe from the late 1930s to the 1950s (and then again in modern form from 2000 onward), all of them made under the absolute supervision of watchmaker Louis Cottier, inventor of the world time system.
In 1937, Cottier submitted to the company a first offer for a 17’’’ world time movement and he would eventually create less than 100 movements, most of them cased in reference 605. The model was originally offered with a silver (sometimes champagne or pink) dial, but it was a commercial flop due to the combination of the downhill trend of pocket watches in then-current fashion and the novelty of the world time system which was met with lukewarm enthusiasm by Patek Philippe clients. This is why it is very common to see years passing between the production date of a 605 HU and its sale: in this case for example, the watch was manufactured in 1950 but sold only in 1957.
When analyzing the back of the enamel disc, one can notice on the opposite side from where the movement number is stamped another mark which would look like an unusual glyph to an untrained eye. In fact, that is the stamp of Louis Cottier (an interlaced L an C). Connoisseurs of watchmaking will find it surprising for a watchmaker to sign a dial which is not made by the watchmaker. In fact, due to the mechanical connections of the revolving bezel and dial to the world time mechanism, Cottier himself supervised every single production passage for these pieces and thus the back of the dial bears his mark.
An absolutely thrilling find, the present reference 605HU from the family of the original owner, housed in pink gold and featuring a cloisonné enamel dial featuring Europe, Asia and Africa is not merely the only one known and probably unique example in this configuration but it is in incredible condition and an absolute must have for the collector of rare and historically important vintage pieces.
