Patek Philippe Calatrava Gents Ref 96 Rare 1946 Vintage Watch, Archive Papers
Strap Material : Leather
Closure : Buckle
Max Wrist Size : 19.1-20 cm
Strap Colour : Grey
Number of Jewels : 18 Jewels
Indices : Baton Indexes
Dial Colour : White
Year Manufactured : 1946
Customised : No
Strap Width : 17 mm
Band/Strap : Two-Piece Strap
Vintage : Yes
Case Thickness : 7 mm
Department : Men, Unisex Adults
Case Colour : Yellow Gold
Caseback : Snap
Bezel Type : Fixed
Lug Width : 18 mm
Watch Shape : Round
Style : Luxury
Features : 12-Hour Dial, Swiss Made
Case Size : 31mm W X 38mm L Inc Lugs Ex Crown
Case Material : 18 Carat Solid Gold
Bezel Colour : Yellow Gold
Handmade : Yes
Movement : Mechanical (Manual)
Water Resistance : No Due To Age
Reference Number : 96
Brand : Patek Philippe
Type : Wristwatch
Model : Calatrava 96
Case Finish : Polished
With Manual/Booklet : No
Country of Origin : Switzerland
Display : Analogue
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 96 - 18ct Yellow Gold | Manufactured 1946 'You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.’ Patek Philippe started this now ubiquitous marketing campaign in 1966 and never looked back, though they already had an outstanding legacy since the watchmaker was founded in the year 1839. Patek built its reputation on several foundational pillars: tradition, innovation, and excellence, all of which are paramount in every timepiece they make, both old and new. The watch has been serviced by a master horologist and is running correctly, making it suitable for careful wear while remaining a collectible example of post-war Patek Philippe production. A fine and honest example of the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96, the definitive early Calatrava model, produced in 18-carat yellow gold and manufactured in 1946. Fitted to a Patek Philippe Strap Band, this watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, confirming manufacture in 1946 and sale on 10 February 1947. Also included is a Patek Philippe travel pouch. The case back bears a personal presentation inscription engraved 12 June 1946, reading: “To Joe – On Our Silver Wedding – June 12th 1946 – Helen” The engraving is contemporaneous with the period of manufacture and predates the recorded retail sale, indicating a personal commission or presentation shortly after production. Such period inscriptions are typical of mid-century Patek Philippe watches and provide documented historical context without affecting the integrity of the watch. The reference 96 is widely regarded as the archetypal Calatrava, establishing the design language that defines Patek Philippe’s dress watches to this day. Examples from the immediate post-war period, accompanied by archival confirmation, remain increasingly difficult to source. Please note: The watch measures approximately 31mm in diameter, which was a standard gentleman’s size during the 1940s. While considered mid-sized by period standards, it will wear noticeably smaller when compared to modern Patek Philippe wristwatches, in keeping with the proportions of early Calatrava models. An attractive opportunity to acquire a 1940s Calatrava reference 96 with clear provenance, period inscription, and documented archival support. If it weren't for the Nautilus or Grand Complications series, Patek Philippe would undoubtedly be best known for the Calatrava. The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the truest representation of the classic dress watch, and was first introduced to the world in 1932 with the model reference 96. The sleek round cases of the Calatrava are celebrated for their simplicity, often paired with elegantly understated dials free from complications a design philosophy that lives on today. ‘CALATRAVA’ a true "must-have" for any Patek collector or dress watch aficionado. There is nothing more beautiful, timeless, or elegant than a vintage Patek Philippe. This particular reference 96 is elevated further by its fantastic original condition. This is a true connoisseur's timepiece, dating to the very heyday of Patek Philippe 1940’s. The reference 96 is admired for its elegant proportions, showcasing a beautifully balanced case and dial layout. At its heart, the watch is powered by Patek Philippe’s 18 jewel manual-winding calibre 12-120 movement, renowned for its precision, reliability, and fine testament to the brand’s uncompromising standards in horology. Beyond its technical excellence, the Ref. 96 holds great historical importance. Produced in very limited numbers, it represents a fleeting chapter in Patek Philippe’s mid-20th century production, making it one of the rarer references to surface on the market today. Its scarcity, coupled with its timeless design, has elevated the model to a coveted status among discerning collectors worldwide. This Patek Philippe is more than a timepiece; it is a world-class watch of extreme rarity, embodying the essence of Patek’s heritage, craftsmanship, and enduring legacy. The Original Dial: The dial is an original silvered dial with a soft, warm tone consistent with mid-1940s Patek Philippe production. It features an applied yellow-gold baton index layout, with a distinctive double applied baton at 12 o’clock, correctly proportioned and period-appropriate for the reference 96. The printed minute track is composed of fine, evenly spaced gilt dots around the periphery, retaining good definition. The dial is signed “PATEK PHILIPPE & Co – GENÈVE” in black, with correct typography and placement for the era. At 6 o’clock is a recessed subsidiary seconds dial, neatly executed with concentric guilloché (snailing) and a printed seconds track with fine graduations, providing both depth and visual balance. The subsidiary register is well aligned and harmonious with the main dial. The watch is fitted with faceted yellow-gold dauphine hands, consistent with post-war Calatrava specification and complementing the applied markers. Overall, the dial presents as honest and original, showing light surface spotting and subtle patination commensurate with age, without evidence of aggressive cleaning or restoration. The ageing is even and sympathetic, preserving the character expected of a well-preserved 1940s Calatrava. Original Crystal: Perspex crystal is in good condition for the age with some minor marks not noticeable to the naked eye only under magnification. Original Movement: Signed Patek Philippe & Co Geneve Serial numbered 92******. The movement here is a 18 jewelled highly precise and reliable manual wind movement, a movement used in Gents Patek Philippe watches in the era in which it was made. This movement is crafted to Patek’s exacting standards, ensuring durability, accuracy, and exceptional performance. Compact Design, particularly in the elegant and refined Patek Philippe 1940’s catalogue. The 18 jewelled high grade movement underscores Patek’s commitment to excellence, blending traditional watchmaking expertise with the then 1940’s innovation. It’s a testament to the brand’s versatility beyond mechanical movements. Patek went to considerable trouble and expense to ensure its movements performed better than competitors, and they succeeded! These are indeed high precision movements and the example here is running very well, having been calibrated to run consistently accurate. Original Case: The 18k yellow gold case is in extremely well-preserved condition, retaining its factory finishing on the case and clean lugs, showing signs of moderate use. The chamfered 18k yellow gold fixed bezel is in solid condition. The gold case bears 18K assay marks and is of a very solid two-piece design with a wonderful bezel to improve dust resistance. The elongated lugs are unique in design. Yellow 18 carat gold case measures 31mm in width excluding the crown x 38mm in length including lugs. Case has surface scratches associated with precious polished metals commensurate with age and wear. Please see photos. Original Case Back Cover Outer: The case back remains in crisp and good condition bearing personal inscription. The polished finish solid gold snap case back indicating it is a nice tight fit and is of full thickness. Has surface scratches associated with precious polished metals commensurate with age and wear. Please see photos. Original Case Back Cover Inner: Inside the case-back is signed Patek Philippe & Co Geneve Swiss 18K 0.750, bearing Swiss assay marks along with serial number 30*****. In Good condition. The Crown/Winder: The watch is fitted with a later generic unsigned crown. In good order. Patek Philippe Leather Strap Band and aftermarket Gold plated Buckle: The watch is finished with a medium sized grey alligator leather strap with a aftermarket gold plated buckle. The strap band is well used and has signs of wear commensurate with age. Fits up-to a 7.5 inch wrist circumference adjusted down to a small wrist of around 6 inches. *Please observe photographs carefully as they form part of the description* Please note this Patek Philippe is approximately over 79 years old. Shipping DHL insured registered post World wide. Buyer responsible for any taxes or duties due which may delay or hold up your shipment at destination port. Additional Information; Royal Clients & Patronage • Patek Philippe has a long history of serving royal courts and aristocrats across Europe.  • One key turning point: at the Great Exhibition in London, 1851, Queen Victoria purchased a Patek Philippe pendant watch. That association with the British monarchy gave the brand prestige and “royal endorsement.”  • After that, the brand was sometimes described as having royal favor, or as “official purveyor of watches for the royal family.”  • Among its historical royal clients are Christian IX of Denmark, Hussein Kamel (Egypt), Prince Albert, Victor Emmanuel III of Italy, and others.  • In the UK, Queen Elizabeth II was known to wear Patek Philippe watches, and there’s a famous photo of Princess Diana wearing two Pateks simultaneously (reportedly to keep one safe while Prince Charles played polo).  So in terms of clientele, Patek Philippe has had a strong association with royalty and elite patrons, which enhances the prestige of the brand. “Royalty” as a Metaphor: Why Patek Philippe is Considered “Watch Royalty” Beyond literal royal clients, the phrase “Patek Philippe royalty” is often used to express the brand’s status in the world of top-tier luxury watches. Some reasons: • Prestige & Legacy: The brand is regarded as one of the most prestigious, often compared to royalty in the watch world. • Exclusivity & Craftsmanship: Limited production, hand-finishing, high complications, etc. • Heritage: It has an unbroken lineage, still family-owned, and storied history. • Iconic Models: Models like the Nautilus and Calatrava are seen as icons in haute horlogerie. • Strong resale and auction value: Many Pateks command extremely high prices at auction, reinforcing their “royal” status in the collector world.
