Cartier

An impressive platinum and diamond-set tonneau-form cocktail watch with trapezoid lugs and original platinum and gold deployant buckle | Circa 1929

Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, black radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 7¼’’’ circular movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, flat hairspring Movement number: beneath dial 27’848 Case: platinum tonneau-form case, bezel and and trapezoid-form lugs set with single-cut diamonds, central marquise-cut diamonds above 12 o’clock and beneath 6 o’clock, faceted diamond-set beaded crown, case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, case back exterior with French dog’s head assay mark, rubbed Edmond Jaeger punch mark and engraved Made in France and additional indistinct hand etched number Case numbers: 21’440, 27’848 London Subsidiary Stock No. • 6289 • Closure: 18k pink gold and platinum deployant buckle, rectangular platinum buckle bordered with single-cut diamonds, pink gold blades stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and twice numbered 8336 Size: 18 x 30.5 mm (width x length including lugs) Box: no Papers: no Accessories: noneThis impressive cocktail watch elevates Cartier’s iconic Tortue form to new heights of refinement through its intricate diamond embellishments. The model’s characteristic ‘paw’ lugs are replaced by distinctive trapezoid-form lugs, visually and structurally connected to the case by two prominent marquise-cut diamonds. Surrounding these are single-cut diamonds. While many Cartier cocktail watches of the period feature rose-cut stones, the use of single-cut and marquise cut diamonds here offers superior brilliance and symmetry. Both cuts feature defined pavilions and precise faceting, enhancing light reflection and resulting in increased radiance and a more refined and dramatic visual impact. The original matching platinum and pink gold deployant buckle is also set with single-cut diamonds and, designed in belt form, serves to further enhance the overall harmony and glamour of the piece.