Cartier, Paris | London retailed | A yellow gold and black enamel Art Deco clip watch, Circa 1928-29
Cartier, Paris
London retailed
A yellow gold and black enamel Art Deco clip watch, Circa 1928-29
Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel spade hands
Calibre: 5½’’’ oval movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., Swiss, lever escapement, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments
Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 22'955, 2
Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, the top decoratively inlaid to either end with black champlevé enamel in an abstract Art Deco fusion of Egyptian Revival and Middle Eastern motifs, sides of the case with gold roundel caps to the clip’s hinge, similar roundels symmetrically arranged to opposite case end, beaded winding crown, hinged clip to case back, outside case back hand etched Made in France
Case number: hand stamped 21'188, 229 and with French eagle’s head assay mark, case interior with London import hallmarks and date letter ’n’ for 1928-29 and (JC) Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped 21'188
Size: 35 mm length x 15 mm width
Accessories: none
The discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 further ignited global enthusiasm for ancient Egyptian art, which, alongside influences from Middle Eastern and Asian design, became central to Cartier’s creations. The Maison’s work from this period reinterpreted elements such as geometric forms, symbolic motifs, and architectural details, drawing from temple ornamentation, arabesques, and sacred artefacts. These were rendered in materials like black enamel, onyx, lapis lazuli, and turquoise to reflect both exoticism and luxury. This watch case demonstrates how these influences extended into Cartier’s timepieces, illustrating the Maison’s mastery of blending historical references with modern design. The intricate black enamel decoration, with its curling, symmetrical patterns, suggests a synthesis of influences that were reimagined and abstracted by Cartier’s designers to align with the bold, modernist aesthetic of the Art Deco movement. The central motif could be interpreted as a stylised Eye of Horus, a powerful symbol in ancient Egyptian culture representing protection and restoration. Alternatively, the broader section of enamel decoration might evoke the abstraction of sacred animals such as the falcon, or reference the flowing arabesques and geometric ornamentation found in Islamic art. At the same time, the precise symmetry and sharp contrasts between gold and enamel are unmistakably Art Deco, emphasising the era’s love for clean lines and bold compositions.卡地亞 巴黎 倫敦發行 黃金及黑色琺瑯裝飾藝術風夾子錶，約1928-29年製
