Montre bracelet Curviligne dans Anneaux Ovale
Cartier, London
Montre bracelet Curviligne dans Anneaux Ovale
An extremely rare and unusual yellow gold oval wristwatch within a larger oval frame with teardrop t-bar lugs and original gold deployant buckle with the clasp of matching design, Circa 1971-72
Dial: silvered dial with incised Cartier signature, blued steel épée hands
Calibre: 6½’’’ oval calibre 845 movement signed LeCoultre Co., grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, unadjusted, flat hairspring, Incabloc shock absorber
Movement number: maniplate numbered 2'079'125
Case: 18k yellow gold oval case set within outer gold ring with teardrop lugs with pink gold t-bars, case back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown
Case number: inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘q’ for 1971-72, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'916
Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, the clasp of double semi oval form, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘q’ for 1971-72, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'916
Size: 46 mm length x 37 mm width
Accessories: none
At the time of this watch’s production, Cartier London was at the height of its most experimental and creative period, producing some of the brand’s boldest, most unconventional wristwatches. Unlike Cartier Paris, which remained rooted in tradition, Cartier London pursued a distinctly avant-garde approach, reinterpreting heritage models while pushing the boundaries of form, proportion, and openness in design.
This watch embodies that same philosophy, featuring a floating horizontal oval dial set within a larger vertical oval frame, creating a dynamic interplay of geometry and balance. The concept of placing one form within another has precedents in earlier Cartier designs, particularly those that combined square or round cases within oval or circular outer frames. In this 1971 Cartier London creation, the relationship between two interlocking ovals is further refined, transforming the watch into an object of fluidity and sculptural elegance. The dial appears to float, its clean, numeral-free surface reinforcing the purity of the design. Unusually, it is subtly incised with the script-form Cartier signature, adding a discreet yet refined detail. The outer oval frame is interrupted only by two teardrop-shaped gold motifs at 12 and 6 o’clock, which, in addition to serving as decorative highlights, have a structural purpose – concealing the lug bars that secure the strap. This formation not only introduces a focal point but also advances Cartier London’s signature design ethos of the era, in which watch cases were crafted to create the illusion of floating seamlessly above their straps. Here, however, that concept is pushed even further – a void is deliberately introduced beneath the case, resulting in a striking suspension effect that isolates the watch entirely from its strap. The composition is defined by two interlocking ovals, with both the central case and the surrounding frame adopting elongated oval forms. This creates a layered sense of depth, reinforcing the floating effect while adding a dynamic interplay of curves. The central oval case also gives the impression that it could rotate within the outer frame, adding a further sense of movement and playfulness to the design.
Beyond its structural ingenuity, the watch’s overall composition also evokes an abstracted interpretation of Cartier’s back-to-back double C logo. The interplay between the two oval forms mirrors the fluid, interlocking curves of Cartier’s monogram, subtly incorporating an element of brand heritage into an avant‑garde, sculptural form. The teardrop‑shaped gold motifs at 12 and 6 o’clock further enhance this visual connection, recalling the way the Cartier emblem’s mirrored Cs interweave to create balance and symmetry. Given Cartier London’s experimental approach during this period, it is entirely possible that this design was conceived as a reinterpretation of the Maison’s signature motif, transforming it into a wearable expression of the brand’s identity through shape and proportion rather than literal branding.
This model is also exceptionally rare – to date, our research has not found any other examples, further adding to its allure. While it is uncertain whether this was a special order, the level of innovation, sculptural presence, and the apparent rarity of this example suggest that it may have been a bespoke commission or an experimental creation. It was through Jean‑Jacques Cartier’s close collaboration with his chief designer, Rupert Emmerson, that innovative designs such as this became possible, ultimately executed by hand in the Cartier London‑run Wright & Davies workshops.卡地亞 倫敦 Montre bracelet Curviligne dans Anneaux Ovale 極度罕有及獨特黃金橢圓形腕錶，備橢圓外框、淚滴 T 字形錶耳及原裝同設計金錶扣，約1971-72年製
