Description
Ω BULGARI, AN ENAMEL AND DIAMOND 'SERPENTI' BRACELET WATCH
CIRCA 1965
Designed as a highly articulated coiled snake, the scales applied with orangey brown and brown translucent enamel and white enamel accents, the serpent's head with a forked tongue and pear shaped diamond eyes, the mouth opening to reveal a circular dial with dot and spearhead indicators, within a brilliant cut diamond set bezel, back wind movement, dial signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, bracelet signed Bvlgari, stamped 750, maker's case
Size/dimensions: case diameter 1.6cm
Gross weight: 217.4 grams
Prospective UK bidders are advised that this lot has been imported from outside the UK for sale and placed under the Temporary Admission regime. Import VAT at 20% will be charged on the Duty inclusive hammer price. Normal VAT at 20% will be added to the buyer's premium but will not be shown separately on our invoice.
Bulgari
, known as the quintessential Roman jeweller, was established by Sotirio Boulgaris, a Greek silversmith whose name was later Italianized to Bulgari. Born in Epirus, northern Greece in 1857, Sotirio hailed from a family with a rich tradition of silver craftsmanship.
Throughout history, civilizations like the Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians have revered and feared serpents, shaping myths and legends that endure to this day.
The inaugural Bulgari Serpenti creation emerged in 1948: a bracelet-watch crafted in the Tubogas technique. In the 1960s, Bulgari elevated the sophistication of the Serpenti bracelet-watch, introducing colourfully enamelled scales to decorate the body. The Serpenti gained cult status in the 1960s, fuelled by Elizabeth Taylor's portrayal of Cleopatra and a photograph of her wearing her newly acquired Serpenti watch on set in Rome in 1962.
Crafting these enamel pieces demanded rare technical skill. Each gold pentagon-shaped scale was meticulously enamelled, then fired in an oven before being assembled with tiny screws. Inside the serpent bodies, a gold spring ensures flexible sizing, while precious gems accentuate the eyes and sometimes the watch bezels, discreetly hidden within the mouth. Bulgari collaborated with esteemed watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin to craft the movements for these enamel snake jewels.
These rare designs, numbering fewer than one hundred, primarily comprised bracelets, with only a handful of belts ever produced. Despite their scarcity, the enamel snakes swiftly became emblematic of Bulgari's artistry. The seamless blend of history and contemporary style inherent in the Serpenti collection epitomizes Bulgari's aesthetic, solidifying its status as a revered name in the world of luxury jewellery.
