Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 8638ST

Royal Oak II, Reference 8638ST | A stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet | Circa 1976

Dial: blue tapisserie Calibre: cal. 2062 automatic, 24 jewels Movement number: 175'662 Case: stainless steel, case back secured by 8 screws, with personal engraving Case number: B5'266 Closure: stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet and folding clasp Size: 29 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 145 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Audemars Piguet digital Extract from the Archives and presentation boxFollowing the success of the Royal Oak reference 5402ST introduced in 1972, Audemars Piguet developed a smaller version intended for women. Introduced at the Basel Watch Fair in April 1976, the Royal Oak II reference 8638 was designed by Jacqueline Dimier, one of the first female designers in the watch industry. Measuring 29 mm in diameter, the model retained the defining elements of Gérald Genta’s design. However, to maintain a harmonious dial layout, Jacqueline Dimier introduced the applied white-gold “AP” monogram at 12 o’clock, a detail that would later become a signature feature across many Royal Oak models. Rather than opting for a simpler hand-wound or quartz movement, Audemars Piguet equipped the watch with the small self-winding calibre 2062 (Rayville–LeCoultre blank), reflecting the Manufacture’s commitment to technical excellence. The present Royal Oak was purchased shortly after its launch in May 1976 at Darcal, Switzerland. Having previously been gifted a Royal Oak reference 5402ST by his wife for their twentieth wedding anniversary, the husband wished to mirror the gesture. Five years later, he offered her the present timepiece to celebrate their twenty-fifth anniversary. For the occasion, the case back was engraved with the names of their three children together with the date 11 June 1976, a touching gesture of love and complicity. Over the years, the watch was worn with care and remains in appealing condition with good proportions and no visible stretch to the bracelet. The watch is further accompanied by its original box. The Royal Oak II reference 8638ST was produced in approximately 1,456 examples between 1976 and 1980 and sold until around 1990. Consigned today by the family of the original owner, the present example stands not only as a significant early Royal Oak, but also as a touching and romantic testament to a shared life, enduring affection, and memories carried quietly through time.