Patek Philippe Calatrava 570 White Gold
When I think about a dress watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava immediately springs to mind. As an essential component for any Haute Horlogerie brand, the dress watch archetype holds significant importance, and Patek Philippe's Calatrava exemplifies this timeless necessity and continues to build on its rich tradition to this day.
For a bit of historical context, we go back to the ’30s when Charles and Henri Stern purchased the Patek Philippe brand. To revamp the manufacture, the first model they produced is, of course, the Calatrava. The Ref. 96 came in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to take over pocket watches and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe and you can tell that the Calatrava is still a staple in the brand’s lineup.
Offered here today is arguably one of the most iconic and coveted dress watches in Patek Philippe’s watchmaking history – the Ref. 570. Making its debut in 1938, the Ref. 570 was initially introduced as an enlarged rendition of the original Ref. 96 featuring various iterations crafted in stainless steel, platinum, and 18-carat rose, yellow, and white gold. Throughout its production span from 1938 to 1972, the Ref. 570 underwent several technical and aesthetic enhancements while maintaining its original aesthetic and simplistic design. Our featured example here boasts a super rare 18-carat white gold case, accompanied by a set of gently curved lugs, a polished flat bezel, a simple yet elegant time-only dial, adorned with a set of beautiful dauphine hands and baton-style hour markers – epitomizing one of the most classic and understated executions available.
Delving into the condition of its dial, this example has gracefully acquired an eggshell-white hue over time. While the front of the Ref. 570 may appear straightforward, our example actually holds more depth than meets the eye. Turning the watch over to its caseback reveals a surprising feature: a custom exhibition caseback (rest assured, its original solid caseback is still included in this set), offering a glimpse of the stunning movement housed within its white gold case – the magnificently finished Patek Philippe manual-winding Cal. 27 SC, which was fitted in the second series of Ref. 570s that began production sometime in the 1950s (note: first series came fitted with the Cal. 12-120 SC). In typical Patek fashion, despite being initially housed within a solid caseback, Patek Philippe maintained their commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, evident in the meticulous finishing as seen here on the movement, showcasing their unwavering dedication to quality regardless of publicity.
When it comes to wearability, I find the Ref. 570’s 35.5mm case size to be perfectly balanced; it simply feels impeccable on the wrist. It is perhaps one of the most wearable vintage dress watches out there, even by today’s standards. While there may be differing opinions on this, I can attest that its elongated, well-defined lugs contribute to the watch wearing larger than its diameter implies.
The Calatrava is widely regarded by enthusiasts as the epitome of the ideal dress watch, a sentiment I wholeheartedly share and agree with. It is remarkably simple in design but yet so incredibly easy to like and appreciate. With exceptionally timeless proportions and elegance, this Ref. 570 in a rare white gold case is a great dress watch and one that remains understated, until someone who knows notices.
, SPECS
Brand: Patek Philippe
Year: 1965
Model: Calatrava
Reference: 570
Material: 18-carat White Gold
Movement: Patek Philippe Cal. 27 SC, Manual-Winding
Case Diameter: 35.5mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Strap: Nostime Taupe Grained Calf Leather Strap, additional Generic Black Alligator Leather Strap with Signed 18-carat White Gold Tang Buckle
