AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ellipse
DATE OF BIRTH : Circa 1982
MATERIAL : Solid 18 carat yellow gold on an Audemars Piguet alligator band
SIZE : 23mm x 30mm
MOVEMENT : Mechanical Caliber 2052
CONDITION : Excellent, unpolished
BOX : No
PAPERS : No
A solid eighteen carat yellow gold Audemars Piguet Ellipse model on an alligator band. This elegant timepiece is an example of AP simplicity at its finest. A very clean and elegant soft oval design that is said to originate from the golden ratio derived by ancient Greek mathematicians, this design is more commonly seen from Patek Philippe. Introduced into the Patek line in 1968, it still remains a very popular reference today, having come in a number of sizes, dial colors and configurations. This AP version is very similar in appearance to Patek’s version, just with a slightly more rounded look.
Not much is known about AP’s take on this iconic watch, and we are waiting for confirmation if Gérald Genta had his hand in designing the watch, as he was working with both AP and Patek during this time (and this watch very much feels like GG). In the face of the looming quartz crisis, Patek saw its Ellipse collection as a work of art more than a timepiece. Advertisements of the era marketed the Ellipse as a “non-watch,” explaining that “people who merely need to know the time of day will choose a watch, not a Patek Philippe.” This was an interesting and very bold statement by the powerhouse of the Swiss watch industry. Rather than cave, these iconic Swiss brands would continue to do what they did best, potentially even raising the bar.
This watch very much screams quality, but in a refined way. For such a small case, it is made in a very thick gauge of metal. The band, unlike the Patek version, is held in the case by six small gold screws that are only seen once the case is opened. This therefore removes the need for lugs or the bar approach, which Patek employed for their versions, giving the appearance of the watch simply floating on the wrist. The watch comes on its original, signed AP black alligator band. It is not in perfect condition, but still good, and very much wearable. Perhaps one of the best parts to this watch is the original, fully signed, AP solid gold buckle.
The dial is a beautiful matte black with the applied AP logo also in gold. There is then gold printing of the “AP” name and “Swiss” at the foot of the dial. The dial is in perfect, original condition. The hands are very simple and clean in their gold, dauphine design. There was never any luminous material applied to the dial, as is consistent with this more elegant designed watch. The watch is powered by a stunning – and very small – mechanical AP caliber 2052 manual wind movement.
The watch would have been designed toward the end of the 1970s. It has a small hand-engraved personalization on the back which was added in 1982. The case is in excellent condition throughout, and is presented unpolished with gold hallmarks very sharp and model number still present on the case back. Unlike its Patek sibling, it has a slight curve to the inside case back, allowing it to sit more comfortably on the wrist. Overall, this is a very beautiful and very rare watch. If you are looking for something refined, elegant and striking, it is harder to think of a better piece.
