Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar 25657OR Quantième Perpétuel Mother of Pearl Dial Pink Gold
A ref. 25657OR Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel with a mother of pearl dial. There are only 362 examples of this reference to start, but it is estimated that no more than a handful were ever made with mother of pearl dials. This was, in its day, the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar at 3.95mm, the watch that proved mechanical complication still had its place in the market against the growing shadow of quartz. Its historic significance stands alone, but after researching heavily in order to write this, we’ve only been able to locate two other examples. This stone dial Quantième Perpétuel is amongst the very height in terms of collecting in these neo-vintage, ‘holy trinity’ QP references.
Worth Reading:
AP made 362 examples of this ref. 25657 in pink gold between 1982 and 1993. Of those, just a handful are thought to be in the mother of pearl dial we have here. We’ve only been able to locate two other examples. This Quantième Perpétuel perfectly captures what we love about neo-vintage AP: classic proportions, complicated watchmaking, and rarer, little-known iterations. We very rarely see AP bearing stone dials of any kind. That this mother of pearl happens to be in one of the thinnest complicated watches ever made is simply exceptional, in the truest meaning of the word.
At launch in 1978, this was the thinnest QP that had ever been made at 3.95mm. Its calibre 2120/2800 was developed in the throes of the quartz crisis in secret, by a team of 3 senior watchmakers who feared AP’s budget would not allow for the development of complicated watchmaking and so formed their own skunkworks and worked after-hours in secret. The result revived not just AP’s complications, but all of Switzerland.
This ref. 25657 succeeded the original 25548. It is distinguished by sunken subdials. This 25657 differs from the standard dial in more than just material, with applied pink gold dot indices at 12, 3, and 9. Its 36mm case is refined with a stepped bezel and unobtrusive lugs. In the mid 1980s AP made significant changes to the 25657’s construction to increase moisture resistance by integrating the pushers into the case more thoroughly. This latter case also features more blunt-edged lugs and a flatter bezel. The 25657 is a solid caseback, forgoing sapphire for solid pink gold with engraved case number.
This MoP example is easily one of the most captivating examples of the holy trinity QPs we’ve ever seen. To the extent that modern AP has become the Royal Oak company, they do immense disservice to this legacy, one of the greatest in watchmaking. This watch led the charge for mechanical watchmaking’s return against the growing quartz shadow. The icing on the cake is that this one even includes its original VHS tape describing the watch with the papers. This stone dial QP is amongst the very height of collecting in these neo-vintage, holy trinity QP references.
Condition:
This 25657OR presents in excellent overall condition. The case is quite sharp with deep factory hallmarks and defined edges to its sunken pushers. The case bears surface and superficial hairline wear commensurate with age. One tiny mark is present on the brushed case side around 2. The mother of pearl dial has no hairline fractures or cracks whatsoever. Its print is correct with no sections showing any signs of damage or age. The calibre 25657OR/0002 was serviced last year at AP and is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes on the pictured tan saffiano strap with its original AP buckle. The set includes everything except the original outer box.
Specifications:
This watch is modelled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Quantième Perpétuel
Reference: 25657OR/0002
Size: 36
Year: c. 1993, 1994 (Sold)
Case Material: 18k Pink Gold
Movement: Automatic Calibre 2120/2800
Scope: Original Papers with Certificate of Origin, Original Strap & Buckle, Pictured Strap, Setting Pin, AP VHS Tape, Green AP Leather Folio, and Service Papers
