Description
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 5402ST Tropical Dial Royal Oak Jumbo C-Series Steel A ref. 5402 Royal Oak C-Series, the first ever Royal Oak reference, with a remarkable tropical dial. This is the watch that went on to define modern Audemars Piguet. Designed by Gerald Genta, it was the first watch to treat the case and bracelet as one design and market steel as a luxury material. The case has an industrial, aggressive presence but wears with a refined, elegant touch thanks to an ultra-thin 7mm profile. This example features an astonishing tropical ‘Swiss only’ petite tapisserie dial, espresso in tone, and exceptional case condition.
Worth Reading:
This is where it all began, ref. 5402. The ref. 5402 Royal Oak is the watch which has most defined Audemars Piguet in the modern era. It foreran many trends we see today and despite an initially slow reception has gathered momentum with each passing decade. It is the start of integrated bracelets and considering the case-bracelet pair as a design. It was also the start of Genta's rather successful pen in that category. Finally, it began the modern era for AP and went on to revive what was a struggling brand. In the perfect words of collector J. Orozco, it is decidedly, 'different: imposing and aggressive, but still elegant'.
At debut in 1972, the 5402 was the most expensive steel watch ever made, four times the nearest most expensive steel watch at 3750 CHF. It is a testament to AP's ability in watchmaking that they were able to execute on Genta's design so thoroughly, with an intricate monocoque case construction. Here, the midcase and back are fused, front-loading with 8 bolts running through the case to meet screws on back.
Patek went on to be inspired by this very design, hiring Genta to begin on the Nautilus a few years later. Compared to a Nautilus, the design is more industrial, but wears with a comparable elegance thanks to an ultra-thin 7mm case. This was down to calibre 2121, a JLC 920 ébauche. In the words of AP historian M. Friedman, the 920 'stands apart as one of the most reliable, beautiful and technically innovative movements of all time.'
Stern went to great lengths in creating this woven 'tapisserie' dial with a level refinement that could match. Multiple hand guilloché layers here form square pyramids with diamond texture. As they were turned by hand, there is immense variation in the size and number of pyramids between 5402 dials. This example underscores its age beautifully in a uniformly tropical tone, with a warm depth that comes alive in direct sunlight.
The Royal Oak has evolved to include many varied cases and complications. In our opinion, the original has yet to be bettered. It was a pioneering design, let alone retail strategy and engineering. Love or hate it, the 5402 easily one of the most significant watches of the last century.
Condition:
This 5402 C-Series presents in exceptional vintage condition. The calibre 2121 is beautifully in spec on our timing equipment, serviced just prior to sale. All mechanical functionality is perfect.
Its dial is an even rich brown, with varying levels of tropical patina on every individual square of the weaved 'petite tapisserie', with the pyramid's tops lighter than the deeper channels between them. Dial and hand tritium applications match and fade evenly under UV inspection. The level and effect of this tone is very dependent on light: we've tried to photograph this example in a range of scenarios. From bright light to interior, it can range from latte with a hint of purple to a warm grey. It really does have to be seen in person to be understood. This example has a correct 'AP up' dial with Swiss-only signature. Swiss Made, in C-Series 5402s, is indicative of a service dial replacement, which this is not.
Its case is beautiful, with proud even bevels. There is very light patina on its exterior, superficial surface wear and an almost imperceptible mark on the case lower at 9. The edges of this case are remarkably sharp with a tight bracelet, beautiful factory lines. It comes on a bracelet with full links and one extra, which will fit up to a 7.6" wrist (larger than most 5402s). Endlinks are correctly signed 'CXX'. Two of the extra lower-link bracelet pins show screw head wear, but function perfectly. The upper case pins show no wear at all. It is sporting is original unsigned crown, again not an AP-signed service replacement. The case is a clear standout from most we see in condition, numbered C176X, dating between 1978-1980.
Specifications:
This watch is modeled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak
Reference: 5402
Size: 39
Year: 1978-1980
Case Material: Steel
Movement: Automatic Calibre 2121
Scope: Watch Only
